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Went to Niagara Falls

Without evidence to the contrary, it is assumed that James Griffing stuck to his schedule which was to travel through western and southern Pennsylvania selling maps, stopping in Baltimore to visit his brother Daniel, then following the Susquehanna River northward across central Pennsylvania to Owego, New York. It is highly unlikely that he detoured to New York City for the World’s Fair or to Middletown, Connecticut, to witness the Wesleyan University 1853 Commencement exercises since he made no reference to these events in subsequent letters. His stop in Owego was probably a long one, having been absent from home for almost two years. The visit gave him plenty of time to share with his lonely mother and his beloved Augusta, home from Hartford.

Before long, however, James was traveling again. His first letter to Augusta was written from Waterford, Erie County, Pennsylvania:

Waterford [Pennsylvania]
October 1, 1853

Dearest Augusta,

I have nothing especial to say, yet as I have a few moments during the shower, I gladly embrace it in talking with one with whom I hope, if life is spared, to enjoy days and years of such opportunities in her own presence. It seems like an age since I left home and those as dear, to wander on my worldwide pilgrimage, and all the time without as yet hearing a single word from an old friend. In a few days, I hope to arrive at Meadville [Pennsylvania] where I hope to meet some letters. Yesterday I was at Erie and I watched the cars very closely in hopes to recognize some old countenance but none was to be seen. And were it not for my good friend Charley, whom I have the pleasure to greet occasionally, I should at times get very lonesome and almost homesick. I know not why it is that the hours seem to drag so heavily.

My health is good [and my] spirits are good. Sales of maps tolerable good, yet after all, something seems to say, “You are out of your sphere. You had far better be engaged in your Master’s business.” And then I would come to think in what that business consists, the qualifications required for success, the great necessity of an immediate engagedness, the demands of the age, &c., I am compelled to hide behind my own littleness and inadequacy to engage in so great an undertaking. And then when I think of the crying wants of expiring thousands that daily rush into eternity “without one cheering beam of hope” to illuminate death’s dark and dreary passage – and many of these very same are spiritually dying after soliciting the light of the Christian world; when I think of the repeated urgings for aid to circulate religious reading among the destitute and present to them the claims the blessed Jesus has upon their lives; of the nobility of such an enjoyment compared with the mere striving for earthly gain; of the numberless places where such aid is wanted, I am led to think that somewhere the finger of Divine Providence might point out to me some spot, wherever it may be, where such an unworthy creature as myself might labor and toil to bear the messages of Mercy to the needy and dying. Oh would it not be noble blessed, soul-cheering thus to engage, thus to labor, thus to die? Does not every other employ that in its loftiest aims falls below the promotion of man’s happiness and God’s glory seem too insignificant to occupy the attention of an immortal being? What right has [man] to do as he chooses with his own time when the Being who made him has a constant claim upon his all? I am glad to have the prospects so favorable for drawing my present occupation to a terminus about two months longer, Providence favoring, and I hope to be otherwise employed.

In this section of the country the fall crops seem to surpass anything I have known in a long time. The corn, potatoes, buckwheat, turnips, and all kinds of fruit, are abundant. There has been no frost as yet to speak of but I have been for some time almost wishing one to throw open the chestnut and beechnut burrs for it seems that the trees might be disburdened of much of their load without missing them. I wish I could have shared with you some fine peaches given me a few days ago. Good as they were, it would have made them so much better.

How have you passed the hours since last I saw you? Who has been out from Connecticut? Who from the West? What has transpired in and about Owego? Have they a Teacher’s Institute at Owego this fall? I noticed in the papers that Dr. [Samuel H.] Cox of New York had purchased Mr. Platt’s residence. Will he preach in Owego [at the Presbyterian church]? I saw also that Seneca Parmenter died of yellow fever at New Orleans from Tioga County, N. Y. Was it Mr. Parmenter’s son of Owego? Please see how all our people are. Has Harriet Hall Warring gone to Cincinnati yet? I expect to go around by St. Louis up the Mississippi before I return home. It will be a long journey and if I go, I can hardly say when I shall have the pleasure of seeing you. But until then, let me share your prayers and believe me as ever yours, -- James.

Direct [your next letter] to Pittsburgh, Allegheny County, Pennsylvania

Buffalo [New York]
October 13, 1853

Beloved Augusta

It will be over an hour before the [railroad] cars leave and I take the intervening time to write. I have seemed to be more under the control of circumstances since I left home and consequently could not tell my friends just where to write in order that their letters might reach me. Consequently, I have not heard a word from home since I left. But oh! I hope that no intruder has entered that sacred spot [and] that all its inmates are yet smiling amidst heavens blessings. However, I shall soon go to where I expect to find letters.

My dear friend Charley W. I. has left me this morning. I came to this place with him [three days ago] on Monday. Yesterday we went to the [Niagara] Falls and had a very pleasant time. We arrived there early and busied ourselves to the very best advantage [that] we could all day. This time I visited Iris Island, [1] ascended to the highest [point] in the tower upon the brink of the falls [where I] basked, and wondered, and fidgeted, and gazed. [Here I] was beclouded with mist and almost deafened with the eternal thunderings. [From there we] went down and along to another part of the island where we descended the Biddle Staircase [2] down, down, down, way down to the cave of the winds where we almost caught hold of the end of the rainbow. And then, Oh such a crashing and splashing and smashing and dashing [of water] right over our heads! And then to look out upon the wide spreading, foaming milky sheet of nearly two rods in thickness that came breaking over right at our side....it was enough to make impressions that no changes in time can ever efface.

View of the Falls from the American Side

Terrapin Tower, the "brink of the falls"

From Harper's Weekly, October 2, 1858

[After visiting the falls,] we visited the [Niagara Village] Museum [3] [where] we saw all kinds of snakes and beasts and birds, the skeleton of a whale, live wolves and buffaloes, a live dog born with two legs who could get about some, and various other things too numerous to mention. We crossed [the river below the falls on] the suspension bridge and recrossed [the river on] the ferry. At the bridge, they are erecting two very heavy stone abutments preparatory for the railroad bridge soon to cross there. Quite a large village has been built at this point since I was here last and improvement is clearly written on every portion of the country all about here.

But I have not time to tell you more at present—but must postpone until I see you. In the evening, we came here to Buffalo and went to attend a soiree given by the world renowned Siamese twins. [4] Did you ever see them? They are certainly a great curiosity. There was such a crowd to see them last evening that I could get no chance to converse with them. I saw them at the [train] depot this morning as they started for Attica [New York] and asked them several questions. [They] say they are going to see the Crystal Palace [at the New York City World’s Fair] and shall stop at Owego one evening [for a performance] on their way thither. If you have never seen them, I think you will enjoy it. After seeing them, we went to hear Father Gavazzi [5] lecture upon the evils of Roman Catholicism and were well repaid for all our trouble.

Today I start for Chautauqua County [New York] where I stay a short time and then think of going farther west. But I must close. Please pardon this hasty scrawl and believe me as ever yours most sincerely, -- James

Please write me soon. Direct to Meadville, Crawford County, Pennsylvania. Tell if you have written me at Pittsburgh. Give all the news. Adieu.

[Somewhere south of Erie, Pennsylvania, late October, 1853]

[Dear Augusta]

[From Erie, Pennsylvania, I set my course southward toward Meadville. My path was through a thick wilderness, yet thinly settled. I was obliged to take this route in order that I might meet my friend Charley at our prearranged rendezvous. In crossing this wilderness, I was eventually joined by two seedy looking characters who engaged me in conversation. One spoke English, the other spoke only broken English with a heavy German accent. When they discovered my business, the English speaking stranger] proposed to buy a map stating that he had nothing less than a five dollar bill. [When I declined to sell him a map, he pressed harder and] said he must have a map. Whether his object was to find out whether I had any money or [whether he] wished to pass a counterfeit bill on me, I could not say. I [again] gave him to understand that I did not care about changing his bill. By this time, the other fellow had forgotten that he was a Dutchman and began to talk as good English as anybody. I began to feel just as if their company was anything but agreeable, so I gave them to understand that I was in a hurry and left them very abruptly after which I trod upon the turf with considerable rapidity.

But I had not pushed through the thick wilderness over two miles farther before I saw coming three long-bearded men, two armed with guns and one with a hatchet. I soon found them to be hunters who....addressed me very kindly and gave me a short history of their adventures. They told me I had about four miles farther to go before I would find the [next] settlement. They stated that they had, the day before, traveled through on the Elk Lick route but were obliged to camp out over night. And they told me that they thought it doubtful whether my comrade [Charley] would succeed in getting through in one day as he would be obliged to go nearly twenty miles through the thick forest. I knew this was farther than [Charley] expected it would be. They also said that they had seen a number of bear and wolf tracks in different places along [the way]. I had already heard enough to forget all about myself and think only of my good friend Charley. What if he should not succeed in getting through, thought I. What if he should lose his way and be obliged to lodge in some tree top? What can I do? What ought I to do?

Bidding them goodbye, I was soon among the Norwegians. But permit me to write you of hemlock verses which somewhat amuses.  Must have dropped whilst hovering over these wilds.  They were etched on an old tree....

This morning so early I hasten from you
This morning so early I bid you adoo.
Your whetstones are great
Your income is small
So then I leave you
Your whetstones and all.

-- A. I. Loucks

Oh how good my dinner tasted, even if it was served up in real Norwegian style. A number of them came in the house where I stopped. They placed my dinner on one end of a long table and when I took my seat at the table, a cup was placed for everyone present so that they surrounded the table and sipped coffee whilst I was eating....[I suppose] to keep me company. They could not understand me very well [and] neither I them. [Too bad. If they had,] I should have troubled them with ten thousand questions.

I should not think they would like it very well [where they live]. The country is so rough, the soil poor, and it is so very difficult to obtain provisions. Already some of their number have left. Many of the remaining are indolent and dissipated, throwing the burden of the work on the females, who like the Dutch women seem ever ready and willing to bear the burden of the work. And I am sure that such a disposed colony can never prosper without a thorough reformation.

After getting my dinner, for which they scorned at the idea of receiving remuneration, [and] after selling some of my maps, I began to think about Charley. If he came through the woods that day, he would come out about 8 miles from there up the valley where there was a house. I could not stop a moment [longer], tired as I was, but immediately went there. And what was my joy to find him just arrived at the house safe....only his pants were badly torn. To both it was a pleasant meeting and it took us long into the evening to rehearse the incidents of a single day’s travel. But I must stop. Pardon my delay in writing.  Please write me soon. Give all the news and direct [your letter] to Meadville, Crawford County, Pennsylvania. Forever yours, -- James

Pittsburgh [Pennsylvania]
November 17, 1853

Dearest Augusta,

Four letters right along – oh what a treat. And that too when one has been for a long time among strangers without seeing an old familiar face for a long time. It is raining quite hard this morning and I could think of no more sure way to drive away the gloom and dreariness of a smoky Pittsburgh shower than to sit down and converse with yourself, Augusta. If I had been careful to keep a journal, I might fill many pages such as these with little incidents that continually crowd my daily pathway, which I think would tend in a measure to relieve my letters of their sameness, but I cannot do it without much inconvenience. I have thus far neglected it altogether, but as I shall soon be traveling on a steamboat over a more favorite route, I will endeavor in my next to give a few items of daily travel.

For a few days past I have been traveling upon the waters of the Allegheny [River]. How much unlike the Susquehanna [River it is]. There you have a variety consisting of mountain peaks threatening your every step, gentle hills rolling away in the dim distance and extensive plains reaching almost to the very sunset. Here on either side are clumsy dwarfish mountains covered with stinted trees attempting to spread out their awkward arms over the enormous “boulders” and large pieces of broken rocks that cover the sides. At first you almost conceive yourself right among the wildest and most romantic portion of the country, but as you travel on mile after mile and behold the same dwarfish awkward trees, the same huge rocks clinging to the hillsides, you grow tired of the sameness and desire to see the smoke curling up from some human habitation.

Probably it was the change as much as anything, but I can hardly tell when I have spent days more pleasantly than at Brady’s Bend [Pennsylvania] on the Allegheny River. It took its name from the fact that a military officer bearing that name deceived, decoyed away, and slaughtered a large number of poor Indians near this place. It is now the seat of one of the largest iron establishments in Western Pennsylvania – furnishing employ for nearly three thousand hands. And the business is very lucrative from the fact that iron ore and coal are found right in the neighborhood of each other, which is something of rare occurrence. Having an opportunity of being introduced to General Brown [6], chief agent, he gave me permission to go just where I chose throughout the entire works, which kind grant I freely improved. My greatest adventure was up a very steep inclined plane several hundred feet alone, standing on the car body and clinging to the coal box. At first I thought, “Oh how nice” – but as I went whizzing up the hill much more rapidly than I expected and soon turning around and seeing how pigmy-like those appeared [whom] I had just left [on the ground], and then thinking how pell mell like everything would go should the rope break, instinctively I clung the closer and was glad soon to find myself at the summit safe & sound. I didn’t think I would want to try it again should old General Brown offer to get on and hold me, and with that offer half what he was worth!

But oh! Did you ever go in a coal mine? If not, it’s very difficult giving you half an idea of it. Of all lives yet, I should think a miner’s the most dismal. His is very like the sinner’s life – one of darkness. “The bright sun rises to its course and sets” but hardly has a single ray to him. A small flickering lamp throws an occasional glimmer along his sooty pathway only to convince him of the lone solitary place of his confinement where he must toil on from day to day and year to year with scarcely an associate but his fellow prisoners. In some places they are obliged to work forever stooping or rest upon their knees. The entrance is just high enough to go in erect. You would hardly have courage to go in alone. The endless darkness would remind you of the entrance to the realms of Pluto. But you need wait at the entrance only a moment when along will come the mule drivers hauling coal. And would you be going with me into the mine? And sure it would afford me the greatest pleasure. Well then, jump into my little car. Hang on [and] look out for your head! Away you go! A damp cool air strikes you and the greatest darkness surrounding you causes you to cry out, “Why won’t the beast stumble down or mistake its way?” Never a bit. On [and] on you go until finally you behold lights glimmering in the distance. Soon you approach the miners. They are very busy, but are glad to see you and ready to answer any of your questions and tell you all about their business. But after all you are thankful to behold daylight again and wonder most of all that men will ever consent to be miners. I shall long remember my stop there, but have not time to tell you about it. They roll out a great deal of railroad iron. Everyone is busy and many [are] ignorant. For instance, I asked an operator if he would like to procure a map. Said he, “I have no time to amuse such things, I’m so thronged.”

But I must close. Oh how painful to my ears was the death of Miss Payson – precious girl! Happy exchange!! I don’t wonder you say people are going west. The most I wonder at is that so many remain there, especially among the young people. Society can be the only plea, not advantage. When shall you be ready to start? I am now on my way to Dubuque, Iowa, rather slowly. Expect to spend the winter somewhere there. When you write to any of my acquaintances east where you choose, please bear my kindest regards. Please send your next [letter] to New Philadelphia, Tuscarawas County, Ohio. I hope to see Harriet Warring and [her] husband when I get to Cincinnati. Do you know where Norman [Goodrich] is and [George] Stroup? Does [my brother] Ossy work in town yet? I sent him a letter but had no answer. How did you leave Eunice Killum? Is she married? Is [your cousin] Nancy Stratton [married]? How many have been added to the church in Owego? Do you have the most distant idea that your parents will throw a single obstacle in the path to impede our future union? Will any considerations cause them to do so? And how will be my best way to ascertain this fact? Please give some suggestions when you write that I may know just the course to pursue. I would prefer to have all doubts entirely removed if possible and I hope the time is not distant when we shall be happily sharing the pleasure of each other’s society. May kind Heaven ever bless you my dearest A, is the sincerest wish of your, -- James

For a couple of months during the winter of 1853-1854, James Griffing kept a small, leather-bound memorandum book that could be conveniently tucked away in his coat pocket. The following fragmented notes were written shortly after entering the State of Ohio:

Monday, November 21, 1853

Day rainy—traveling through Eastern Ohio among the Dutch—find the people far behind the times....very illiterate...and wanting in ambition.

Tuesday, November 22, 1853

Traveled ten miles this day and met with much encouragement in my employment. Stopped in the evening with [a farmer named] Mr. [Robert] Martin of Fairfield [Township, Columbiana County, Ohio].

Wednesday, November 23, 1853

Collected some information with regard to teachers institutes in Ohio and examined partially a small work on Phonography [or shorthand]. Was favorably impressed with the science and must embrace the earliest opportunity to study it.

Thursday, November 24, 1853

One incident occurred today that I cannot soon forget. At a home where no prattling babe had ever blessed the domicile, the parents were rejoiced to be presented with the article while traveling at a distance from home. With rejoicing hearts, they bore it to their own hearth, had kept it just long enough to begin to love it, and were doting upon the joy it would afford them in future years. They were sure it must always be there as it was presented them by a family whose inmates were dying with a contagious disease—And whilst they were rejoicing their precious treasure, who would come but the mother of the babe and bear away the precious gift. Imagination will fail to paint the scene that followed. It seemed like tearing away their very heartstrings. Wailing instead of weeping ensued.

[Wednesday] November 30, 1853

Waiting at Alliance [Ohio] expecting a package that should have been here yesterday. The only way I can manage is to wait patiently. This is a place of considerable stir as about 600 passengers dine here each day. It bids fair to become a place of considerable size....A great confusion is made here about noon and it is really worth one’s while to witness the bustle and great excitement as the [railroad] cars come and go....Little children crying and old men wandering.

[Friday] December 2, 1853

Waiting, still waiting. How much patience one needs to submit to the irregularities of the express regulations...

[Saturday] December 3, 1853

Attended a debate at Mt. Union Academy.  The resolution discussed was as follows: Resolved — That mans nature prompts him to love wickedness and falsehood rather than truth and righteousness—
1 Affirmative -- Chamberlain Bonebash
2 Negative -- J. Carr (well argued for a youngster)
.....Declamation—
P. Mort...swayed too much with his frame...spoke too fast.
Miss Woodruff...pretty good.
Mr. Wise....slow and sure.
Miss Wilson...pretty fast.
Williamson...good advice.
L. Worth...frightened.
Mr. Vance...musical.
Discussion among the students [on the following]...Resolved—that it is the highest ambition of the present age to live without work.

[Sunday] Christmas Day 1853

Heard a Protestant [Minister] at Newburgh [Ohio] preach....

[Thursday] December 29, 1853

Deposited in the Steubenville [Ohio] Bank—eighty six dollars at four per cent interest. Also deposited fifty dollars in the savings bank at Woodsfield [Ohio] at 6 percent interest.

[Undated]

Sent to [Cousin George Griffing] by check $100.00.

New Years Eve 1853

Heard a Protestant Minister at Cadiz—from these words, “Whosoever therefore will confess me before him will I confess before my Father and the angels.”

Hanover [Ohio]
December 23, 1853

Dearest Augusta,

From what I said in my last letter, you certainly ought to expect by this time almost a quarto volume containing a journal of exploits, adventures, incidents, and accidents throughout the Great West. You will be of course surprised to find that I have changed my location but little as I am [still] in [Eastern] Ohio. I have just been writing a letter to your parents and I learn I can send it today if I have it ready by the [railroad] cars which will be along in a few minutes. And if you will pardon this [short scrawl], I will try and make it up next time. I shall not seal the letter to your parents so that you can read it first and if there is anything there that you wouldn’t wish them to see, please close it in an envelope and return it to me. I have endeavored to express my mind as well as I could and you will please fill up any omissions I may have made in that. Oh, how I would like to see you these long winter evenings and enjoy your society, but must patiently wait. My health is good.

I heard from [Brother] John the same day I received your letter. All were well. Mother enjoys herself right well which I was glad to hear. Says she would be lonesome to come back on the hill. [Sister] Mary thinks of going to school. There are things I would like to write, but the time is about up. Oh pardon. I shall look with great interest for your next letter. Please send to Steubenville, Jefferson County, as soon as possible. Give all the news.  Try and get your letters to me before New Years [Day] if possible. And may God’s choicest blessing ever attend you is the earnest wish of your, -- James    A merry Christmas.

Illustration Credits

[1]    The island separating the American Falls from the Horseshoe (Canadian) Falls was called Iris Island or Goat Island. The tower offering a breathtaking view from the brink of the falls no longer exists. It was built on a pile of rocks a few yards off the shoreline near the Horseshoe Falls and was reached by a small bridge from Iris Island.

[2]    The Biddle Staircase was a long winding wooden staircase that descended to the base of the falls and was reached from Iris Island. It is possible to get to nearly the same location today by way of an elevator.

[3]    Most accounts by visitors to the falls during this period make notice of the recent commercialization of the area and the attempts by many to take advantage of tourists. A museum of curiosities and oddities was almost a certainty at such tourist attractions.

View of Falls from American Side, Gleason's Pictorial, July 1852

View of Falls from Canadian Side, Gleason's Pictorial, July 1852

View of Suspension Bridge below Falls, Gleason's Pictorial, July 1852

Terrapin Tower on Brink of Falls, Gleason's Pictorial, July 1852

  [4]    James is likely referring to Chang and Eng Bunker, who were born in 1811 in Melange, Siam." They were the first, the original Siamese Twins, a term used to describe any two human beings joined at birth by living tissue."  For a picture of these twins and more information, see the Old Wilkes Inc. web page.

[5]    With the Whig Party crumbling apart, various other political factions began to emerge in the 1850's to challenge the Democratic Party. One of the fastest growing parties was the Native American Party or "Know Nothing Party" which grasped the opportunity to coalesce all segments of the population harboring a racial, ethnic, or religious prejudice. According to J.C. Furnas in his book, The Americans p. 528, "The Know-Nothings' rise may also have been aided by the coincident lecture career of a renegade Italian priest, Alessandro Gavazzi, come to America in the early 1850's after triumphs among English anti-Catholics. [The Know Nothing Party reached its peak in 1854 but, fortunately,] came apart under the strains of the slavery issue and disappeared during the distractions of the Civil War."

Alessandro Gavazzi in New York State in the 1850's

[6]    "General Brown" is believed to be Joel Brown (born @ 1799 in Vermont), who was a resident of Brady's Bend, Armstrong County, Pennsylvania, at the time of the 1850 census and who's occupation was recorded as "Manager" by the census taker.